A couple of days ago, I was in my "Prison Break" inspired guesthouse when it dawned on me that I was in dire need of a change. This was the reason why I moved to the Green House.
When I checked in, I realised that this place was slightly more expensive than the previous one. As such, I was convinced that my room would be cleaner - but it wasn't. I was also convinced that it would be less noisier - but it wasn't. It did, however, have something, which made it completely worthwhile - a window.
It was only after having lived in a room without a view that I understood why it is so much more pleasant to live in a room with one. And I can tell you that it surely is great to know if it is daytime or nighttime without having to look at the watch; it is fantastic to be able to air out the room without having to repeatedly open and close the door; and it is inspiring to have a peak outside every now and then and realise just how much life there is around.
There are two other things, which I really enjoy about this guesthouse. I enjoy the fact that there is a restaurant and a bar downstairs, which makes it very inviting and social. I also enjoy the fact that there are trees all around. And I am convinced that being surrounded by the colour green has allowed me recover some of the hope I had lost...
Saturday, 31 March 2012
Thursday, 29 March 2012
This year's first volunteering experience
A couple of weeks ago, I initiated contact with the British Embassy in Bangkok with the purpose of organising a visit to a British detainee in Thailand. Last week, I stopped by in order to be talked through the procedure and we agreed on a date - April 29th. So this morning, shortly after breakfast, I went to the Bang Kwang Central Prison, a men's prison located on the outskirts of Bangkok.
When I got there, I did not manage to register to visit a British prisoner but I met Heather (a Canadian social justice activist who visits foreign male prisoners at Bang Kwang Prison on a daily basis) and, thanks to her precious help, managed to register to visit a Chinese detainee instead.
While waiting to have a conversation with Arote (that's the inmate's name), I bought him some food and made sure that my belongings were stored in a safe place. Soon enough, the authorisation for my visit came through and, after a security check, I got into the maximum security prison. Heather made sure to let me know who Arote was and, shortly afterwards, I picked up a phone, made sure it worked and sat down to talk to him.
I don't know why Arote is in prison; what I know is that he has been there for ten years and needs to stay for five more. He told me - in a very good English! - that his mother and sister never came for a visit (Heather later told me that this was due to his family's extreme poverty). He also told me that he spends his days exercising, talking to other inmates and watching movies on a very small screen TV - an activity he is particularly fond of. I mentioned that, if he likes movies so much, one of the first things he could do on the outside would be to go to the cinema! But he was too reluctant to talk about life after prison, which is totally understandable.
He did mention, however, that once on the outside he might need to get in touch with me in order to ask for a job. What I told him was that, if things continue like this, I might be the one in need to do that because, let's face it, China is a true economic miracle - there are lots of jobs to be found in the country - and, in view of the fact that he speaks fluent Chinese and English, he can easily find a job as a translator. I swear I saw hints of hope and pride in his eyes.
Shortly after this, one of the guards indicated to Arote that time was up and we said goodbye - in both English and Chinese. I took the food I had brought to another security point and waited for authorisation to leave the premises. Just before getting on the boat, which would bring us back to town, Heather and I decided to continue talking about the morning's experience over a drink (which turned into lunch!). And I was amazed by this woman's determination to make the lives of foreign prisoners in Thailand better. I wish her nothing but the best in the future. I also wish that Arote's burden is a little bit lighter today. Truly.
When I got there, I did not manage to register to visit a British prisoner but I met Heather (a Canadian social justice activist who visits foreign male prisoners at Bang Kwang Prison on a daily basis) and, thanks to her precious help, managed to register to visit a Chinese detainee instead.
While waiting to have a conversation with Arote (that's the inmate's name), I bought him some food and made sure that my belongings were stored in a safe place. Soon enough, the authorisation for my visit came through and, after a security check, I got into the maximum security prison. Heather made sure to let me know who Arote was and, shortly afterwards, I picked up a phone, made sure it worked and sat down to talk to him.
I don't know why Arote is in prison; what I know is that he has been there for ten years and needs to stay for five more. He told me - in a very good English! - that his mother and sister never came for a visit (Heather later told me that this was due to his family's extreme poverty). He also told me that he spends his days exercising, talking to other inmates and watching movies on a very small screen TV - an activity he is particularly fond of. I mentioned that, if he likes movies so much, one of the first things he could do on the outside would be to go to the cinema! But he was too reluctant to talk about life after prison, which is totally understandable.
He did mention, however, that once on the outside he might need to get in touch with me in order to ask for a job. What I told him was that, if things continue like this, I might be the one in need to do that because, let's face it, China is a true economic miracle - there are lots of jobs to be found in the country - and, in view of the fact that he speaks fluent Chinese and English, he can easily find a job as a translator. I swear I saw hints of hope and pride in his eyes.
Shortly after this, one of the guards indicated to Arote that time was up and we said goodbye - in both English and Chinese. I took the food I had brought to another security point and waited for authorisation to leave the premises. Just before getting on the boat, which would bring us back to town, Heather and I decided to continue talking about the morning's experience over a drink (which turned into lunch!). And I was amazed by this woman's determination to make the lives of foreign prisoners in Thailand better. I wish her nothing but the best in the future. I also wish that Arote's burden is a little bit lighter today. Truly.
Tuesday, 27 March 2012
The taste of it all
One of the reasons why so many people visit Thailand is to be able to enjoy local Thai food. And this is one of the reasons why so many of those people end up taking a Thai cooking class. Yesterday, I was one of those people and the opportunity to cook my very own Thai meal couldn’t have come at a better time.
The first thing we, aspiring chefs, did was to go to the market and get fresh ingredients for – and this cannot be said enough! – the quality of any meal is totally dependent on the quality of its components. It was at the market that we learned how important chili, basil, lemon grass and ginger are in Thai cuisine; so much so that they are actually known as “key ingredients” – the ones without which you shouldn’t bother cooking. We also learned that vegetables such as broccoli and carrots are known as “fillers” because they have no distinctive features – it is almost as if they fill the body but not the soul.
After the market, we moved on to the kitchen to prepare hot and sour prawn soup (tom yum goong, creamy style), fried noodles Thai style (pad thai sai kai), northern chicken salad (laab gai), green curry with chicken (kang khiao wan gai) and rubies in coconut milk (tub tim grob). Throughout the whole time, I was amazed by the vivid colours of the ingredients we started by washing and then handling; I was hypnotized by the fact that all the ingredients were constantly being displayed in an orderly fashion; I was enjoying not having to spend a lot of time by the stove; I was pleased by the fact that, even though all the ingredients were meticulously chopped and sliced, it was still possible to recognise each and every one of them when the cooking was done.
At the end of the day, it occurred to me that this experience was a true insight into Thai tradition and culture. If all the ingredients had such vivid colours, it is surely because, regardless of where you are in the country, you will always feel a kick of life – and the locals will help you feel alive and happy by always smiling; if all the ingredients were constantly displayed in an orderly fashion, it is due to the country’s historic relationship with the military; if not a lot of time was spent by the stove, it is because it is always so hot that you need to make sure you are as efficient as possible otherwise the heat might just become unbearable; if it was possible to recognise all the ingredients when the cooking was done, it is because, in Thailand, what you see is what you get. Thai people are simple and straightforward; they do not hide behind endless layers, which make it difficult for outsiders to understand what they have to offer. They give you what they show you – and it is up to you to take it or leave it.
All in all, I am definitely very grateful for having had the chance to taste it all. In just one day...
The first thing we, aspiring chefs, did was to go to the market and get fresh ingredients for – and this cannot be said enough! – the quality of any meal is totally dependent on the quality of its components. It was at the market that we learned how important chili, basil, lemon grass and ginger are in Thai cuisine; so much so that they are actually known as “key ingredients” – the ones without which you shouldn’t bother cooking. We also learned that vegetables such as broccoli and carrots are known as “fillers” because they have no distinctive features – it is almost as if they fill the body but not the soul.
After the market, we moved on to the kitchen to prepare hot and sour prawn soup (tom yum goong, creamy style), fried noodles Thai style (pad thai sai kai), northern chicken salad (laab gai), green curry with chicken (kang khiao wan gai) and rubies in coconut milk (tub tim grob). Throughout the whole time, I was amazed by the vivid colours of the ingredients we started by washing and then handling; I was hypnotized by the fact that all the ingredients were constantly being displayed in an orderly fashion; I was enjoying not having to spend a lot of time by the stove; I was pleased by the fact that, even though all the ingredients were meticulously chopped and sliced, it was still possible to recognise each and every one of them when the cooking was done.
At the end of the day, it occurred to me that this experience was a true insight into Thai tradition and culture. If all the ingredients had such vivid colours, it is surely because, regardless of where you are in the country, you will always feel a kick of life – and the locals will help you feel alive and happy by always smiling; if all the ingredients were constantly displayed in an orderly fashion, it is due to the country’s historic relationship with the military; if not a lot of time was spent by the stove, it is because it is always so hot that you need to make sure you are as efficient as possible otherwise the heat might just become unbearable; if it was possible to recognise all the ingredients when the cooking was done, it is because, in Thailand, what you see is what you get. Thai people are simple and straightforward; they do not hide behind endless layers, which make it difficult for outsiders to understand what they have to offer. They give you what they show you – and it is up to you to take it or leave it.
All in all, I am definitely very grateful for having had the chance to taste it all. In just one day...
Sunday, 25 March 2012
Floating in the market
Sometimes having an inquisitive mind is a blessing - especially when you're discussing philosophy; others, it makes you sink like a rock. Sometimes your appetite runs rampant and you can't stop worrying about your weight; others, you have to force yourself to drink a glass of water. Sometimes you're out with friends wishing that your body allows you to stay out just one more hour; others, you pray for it to shut down and let you sleep.
Yesterday I have arranged to go to a Floating Market. As we drove to our destination, I couldn't help but notice that the landscapes parading before my eyes seemed... blue and that all the trees around - usually so dominant and powerful - were actually bowing to it; as if there was no hope to be had for anything or anyone.
When we got to the market, we were given a couple of free hours to explore it. As I walked around, flooded as I was with colourful merchandise and happy smiles, I felt a total disconnection between myself and my surroundings. I felt as if my body was walking but my mind was drowning.
Soon enough it was time to get on a speed boat, which would take us through the local village. As I floated pass the narrow canals, it ocurred to me that some things in life cannot stay afloat. If there are words, which can and should remain unwritten, unsent, unread and unanswered, there are others, which need to be engraved in stone. Otherwise the water might just not flow.
So when I got back to Bangkok, I sent a one worded email. And I can tell you that if sometimes time passes unbelievably fast, others it drags slower than a snail.
Yesterday I have arranged to go to a Floating Market. As we drove to our destination, I couldn't help but notice that the landscapes parading before my eyes seemed... blue and that all the trees around - usually so dominant and powerful - were actually bowing to it; as if there was no hope to be had for anything or anyone.
When we got to the market, we were given a couple of free hours to explore it. As I walked around, flooded as I was with colourful merchandise and happy smiles, I felt a total disconnection between myself and my surroundings. I felt as if my body was walking but my mind was drowning.
Soon enough it was time to get on a speed boat, which would take us through the local village. As I floated pass the narrow canals, it ocurred to me that some things in life cannot stay afloat. If there are words, which can and should remain unwritten, unsent, unread and unanswered, there are others, which need to be engraved in stone. Otherwise the water might just not flow.
So when I got back to Bangkok, I sent a one worded email. And I can tell you that if sometimes time passes unbelievably fast, others it drags slower than a snail.
Friday, 23 March 2012
Out of reach
I've recently started reading Elizabeth Gilbert's "Committed". I really liked "Eat, Pray, Love" so I was curious to have a go at the sequel. A couple of chapters down the line, I can tell you that the book contains many interesting insights on marriage, as well as enriching descriptions of the author's experiences while travelling in Southeast Asia. I can also tell you that, so far, what I have enjoyed most was reading about the teenage Laotian monk, who received a love e-mail from Carla.
Gilbert was at an Internet cafe when a young monk sat down right beside her. Their closeness allowed her to glance at his computer screen and realise that he was reading a love letter from a girl named Carla. She immediately asked herself several questions about their relationship and, at some point, expressed excitement for what was happening to him.
While reading through it, what I couldn't stop thinking about was Carla and how brave she had been for sending that e-mail. I wondered how she must have felt just after clicking send; I wondered if she went through a rollercoaster of emotions while waiting for a reply; I wondered if she ever got one and if it mattered; I wondered if she had read Gilbert's book and realised that, sometimes, a lack of answer does not mean lack of affection - sometimes a monk just has to go and join other monks.
There was a time in which I would have risked sending an e-mail but not anymore. At this point in my life, there are words, which will remain unwritten. Unsent. Unread. Unanswered. And, as Gabrielle put it best, "I know I will be ok" for
"in my reach
I can see
there's a life out there for me."
Gilbert was at an Internet cafe when a young monk sat down right beside her. Their closeness allowed her to glance at his computer screen and realise that he was reading a love letter from a girl named Carla. She immediately asked herself several questions about their relationship and, at some point, expressed excitement for what was happening to him.
While reading through it, what I couldn't stop thinking about was Carla and how brave she had been for sending that e-mail. I wondered how she must have felt just after clicking send; I wondered if she went through a rollercoaster of emotions while waiting for a reply; I wondered if she ever got one and if it mattered; I wondered if she had read Gilbert's book and realised that, sometimes, a lack of answer does not mean lack of affection - sometimes a monk just has to go and join other monks.
There was a time in which I would have risked sending an e-mail but not anymore. At this point in my life, there are words, which will remain unwritten. Unsent. Unread. Unanswered. And, as Gabrielle put it best, "I know I will be ok" for
"in my reach
I can see
there's a life out there for me."
Wednesday, 21 March 2012
Happy birthday to me
This year, I celebrated my birthday in Bangkok. But now that I think about it, it occurs to me that celebrating birthdays is actually a very weird concept since time stopped the second I turned thirty. And I haven't grown old one single day since...
Anyway, this year's March 20th was a day similar to many others I had in Bangkok - I went for breakfast at my usual place in Rambuttri and then spent several hours e-mailing and writing with one break in between for a quick Pad Thai lunch; what really made the difference was the evening.
I had arranged to meet Nikki at 7 p.m. The plan was to go to the Patpong Night Market, one of the city's 'must' night shopping destinations. When we got there, we went for a walk, had dinner and then moved on for drinks. I quite liked the area - it was definitely a nice change to the natural habitat that Khao San Road has become for me - but was a bit put off by the fact that it is packed with ping pong shows' bars.
While enjoying a nightcap, I opened Nikki's thoughtful present - iron-on patches of a strawberry, a dialogue balloon with "Bon voyage" writen on it and a bowl of noodle soup (which Nikki knows I grew extremely fond of!). Shortly afterwards, tiredness kicked-in and we decided to call it a night. I suppose that the fatigue accumulated in Singapore finally catched up with both of us. After all - and as far as I am concerned! - butterflies and alcohol can only get you so far...
Anyway, this year's March 20th was a day similar to many others I had in Bangkok - I went for breakfast at my usual place in Rambuttri and then spent several hours e-mailing and writing with one break in between for a quick Pad Thai lunch; what really made the difference was the evening.
I had arranged to meet Nikki at 7 p.m. The plan was to go to the Patpong Night Market, one of the city's 'must' night shopping destinations. When we got there, we went for a walk, had dinner and then moved on for drinks. I quite liked the area - it was definitely a nice change to the natural habitat that Khao San Road has become for me - but was a bit put off by the fact that it is packed with ping pong shows' bars.
While enjoying a nightcap, I opened Nikki's thoughtful present - iron-on patches of a strawberry, a dialogue balloon with "Bon voyage" writen on it and a bowl of noodle soup (which Nikki knows I grew extremely fond of!). Shortly afterwards, tiredness kicked-in and we decided to call it a night. I suppose that the fatigue accumulated in Singapore finally catched up with both of us. After all - and as far as I am concerned! - butterflies and alcohol can only get you so far...
Tuesday, 20 March 2012
The power of music
Not having been born yesterday and all, I am very much aware of the fact that it's easy to listen to a song and immediately assume that it's about us. Having said this, I was amazed by the timing of the songs I was hearing throughout Singapore for their lyrics and/or melodies were an unbelievably appropriate reflection of what I was going through.
If you are curious to know how my experience in Singapore translates into a playlist, just have a look below:
- On Friday morning, after our incredible night out, Charlotte played this song: Give Me Everything (Tonight), Pitbull
- On Friday evening, I went to the Zoo with Charlotte and Cyril and this was one of the songs I heard in the car: Love Today, Mika
- This was the best song I've heard on St. Patrick's Day (Saturday): Champagne Supernova, Oasis
- One of the songs I've heard in the club we've been to on St. Patrick's Day: Sleep, Conjure One
- On Sunday afternoon, I joined Charlotte and Omar for lunch and this was one of the songs playing while we sat in Hooters: Everything's Gonna Be Alright, Bob Marley
- On Sunday evening, I bumped into Margarida, who I hadn't seen for three years; we had dinner together and, as soon as I got back to the Hangout, I checked my e-mails while listening to the Just Married Theme Song by Christopher Beck
- On Monday afternoon, I was at the airport waiting for the plane back to Bangkok and heard this song: It Must Have Been Love, Roxette
Never before had I felt so... watched and, at times, even taken care of. So do not believe for a second that there is no magic in the world because there is. And it's looking straight at you. Even if you do not see it.
If you are curious to know how my experience in Singapore translates into a playlist, just have a look below:
- On Friday morning, after our incredible night out, Charlotte played this song: Give Me Everything (Tonight), Pitbull
- On Friday evening, I went to the Zoo with Charlotte and Cyril and this was one of the songs I heard in the car: Love Today, Mika
- This was the best song I've heard on St. Patrick's Day (Saturday): Champagne Supernova, Oasis
- One of the songs I've heard in the club we've been to on St. Patrick's Day: Sleep, Conjure One
- On Sunday afternoon, I joined Charlotte and Omar for lunch and this was one of the songs playing while we sat in Hooters: Everything's Gonna Be Alright, Bob Marley
- On Sunday evening, I bumped into Margarida, who I hadn't seen for three years; we had dinner together and, as soon as I got back to the Hangout, I checked my e-mails while listening to the Just Married Theme Song by Christopher Beck
- On Monday afternoon, I was at the airport waiting for the plane back to Bangkok and heard this song: It Must Have Been Love, Roxette
Never before had I felt so... watched and, at times, even taken care of. So do not believe for a second that there is no magic in the world because there is. And it's looking straight at you. Even if you do not see it.
St. Patrick's Day Pub Crawl
After experiencing Singapore's incredible night safari and exciting hop-on hop-off bus, I was lucky enough to be able to celebrate St. Patrick's Day in a very original way - pub crawling!
We were supposed to get together at 6 p.m. but I got to the meeting point slightly later than that. Fortunately, no harm was done - there was still plenty of time to catch-up with the group and hop on a double-decker bus, which would take us to three bars and one club while allowing us to enjoy an amazing view over the city by night.
I am far and away from remembering the names of all the places we have been to but I do remember what I experienced in each of them. On the first bar, I remember drinking the creamiest Guinness ever; on the second bar, I remember playing with white, orange and green balloons; on the third bar, I remember being totally charmed by a live performance of "Champagne Supernova"; on the club, I remember dancing with superb views all around.
Throughout the evening, I met very nice people - including a couple of Belgians living in Singapore - and had the 'bestest' time. I also had to deal with ugly human emotions, namely jealousy, anger and frustration. I suppose that their intensity had something to do with the fact that I was exhausted and drunk but still - an ugly human emotion is an ugly human emotion. I take responsibility for it.
All in all, this was by far the best St. Patrick's celebration I ever had. And the fact that I didn't hear "goodbye" from the only person I wanted to hear it from, doesn't change it one bit. Probably because I take my share of responsibility for it as well.
We were supposed to get together at 6 p.m. but I got to the meeting point slightly later than that. Fortunately, no harm was done - there was still plenty of time to catch-up with the group and hop on a double-decker bus, which would take us to three bars and one club while allowing us to enjoy an amazing view over the city by night.
I am far and away from remembering the names of all the places we have been to but I do remember what I experienced in each of them. On the first bar, I remember drinking the creamiest Guinness ever; on the second bar, I remember playing with white, orange and green balloons; on the third bar, I remember being totally charmed by a live performance of "Champagne Supernova"; on the club, I remember dancing with superb views all around.
Throughout the evening, I met very nice people - including a couple of Belgians living in Singapore - and had the 'bestest' time. I also had to deal with ugly human emotions, namely jealousy, anger and frustration. I suppose that their intensity had something to do with the fact that I was exhausted and drunk but still - an ugly human emotion is an ugly human emotion. I take responsibility for it.
All in all, this was by far the best St. Patrick's celebration I ever had. And the fact that I didn't hear "goodbye" from the only person I wanted to hear it from, doesn't change it one bit. Probably because I take my share of responsibility for it as well.
Monday, 19 March 2012
Singapore Sling
When I got to Singapore, it occured to me that the city was super clean and really trendy. Throughout my stay, I had the chance to confirm that my first impressions were true. I also got to experience something very special.
Shortly after the first of many meals in a food court - the cheapest places to eat in Singapore - Charlotte and I went for a walk. We started by looking for a place for me to stay - which turned out to be the Hangout @ Mt Emily - and then moved on to Little India; this turned out to be one of my favourite places in town - mainly because it had a lot of character.
Just before the sun set, we made our way to the Long Bar - home of the famous Singapore Sling and probably the only place in Singapore where you will not be arrested for littering. A lot of people say that there is too much fuss around the cocktail. I say that there is something about having an original Singapore Sling in Singapore. And there's definitely something about enjoying such a fruity drink in such a hot and humid place.
After dinner, we made our way to the Riverfront. And I truly felt greater than life. As we walked through the lively streets, we realised that the drinks were extremely expensive. So when the time came to decide what to do next - stay and have a drink or buy a bottle of wine and drink it back at the hotel - it took us a while to agree to stay and have a glass of wine.
As we tried to make our way to a cheap place, a random guy offered us a few coupons allowing us to have free drinks in a bar as soon as it opened. And while we waited for it to open, we were offered a couple of drinks by the river. As soon as the bar opened and we got in, we claimed our free drinks. At some point, we thought that we would have to start buying them but there was always someone around to give us more coupons. This actually frustrated me a bit because I really wanted to buy Charlotte a drink but was not managing to!
I can tell you that not having to buy drinks throughout an entire night is already great in normal time but in Singapore - especially after all the effort it took us to agree to stay - it's a real gift. Also because the night turned out to be one of the best nights of my life! Charlotte, Pooky and I had lots of fun - as a matter of fact, we were finding it difficult to stop laughing; the music was so good that we danced and danced; and I met Morgan.
Shortly after the first of many meals in a food court - the cheapest places to eat in Singapore - Charlotte and I went for a walk. We started by looking for a place for me to stay - which turned out to be the Hangout @ Mt Emily - and then moved on to Little India; this turned out to be one of my favourite places in town - mainly because it had a lot of character.
Just before the sun set, we made our way to the Long Bar - home of the famous Singapore Sling and probably the only place in Singapore where you will not be arrested for littering. A lot of people say that there is too much fuss around the cocktail. I say that there is something about having an original Singapore Sling in Singapore. And there's definitely something about enjoying such a fruity drink in such a hot and humid place.
After dinner, we made our way to the Riverfront. And I truly felt greater than life. As we walked through the lively streets, we realised that the drinks were extremely expensive. So when the time came to decide what to do next - stay and have a drink or buy a bottle of wine and drink it back at the hotel - it took us a while to agree to stay and have a glass of wine.
As we tried to make our way to a cheap place, a random guy offered us a few coupons allowing us to have free drinks in a bar as soon as it opened. And while we waited for it to open, we were offered a couple of drinks by the river. As soon as the bar opened and we got in, we claimed our free drinks. At some point, we thought that we would have to start buying them but there was always someone around to give us more coupons. This actually frustrated me a bit because I really wanted to buy Charlotte a drink but was not managing to!
I can tell you that not having to buy drinks throughout an entire night is already great in normal time but in Singapore - especially after all the effort it took us to agree to stay - it's a real gift. Also because the night turned out to be one of the best nights of my life! Charlotte, Pooky and I had lots of fun - as a matter of fact, we were finding it difficult to stop laughing; the music was so good that we danced and danced; and I met Morgan.
Wednesday, 14 March 2012
In the streets of Malacca
The other day I was reading some background information about Malacca and bumped into the following paragraph: "Malacca entered a golden age as a commercial and Islamic religious centre but in 1511 it was captured by the Portuguese. When the Dutch captured Malacca in 1641, the port was no longer an important trading centre."
I don't know about you but when I read the last sentence, I spotted an underlying criticism of Portuguese rule in the area, which, after reading the sentence below, couldn't be confused with a criticism of European colonisation in general: "It was the British that recognized the strategic position of the Malay states and their abundance of natural resources."
In view of the fact that, at some point, I was also told that the Portuguese influence was strong in the old town I was definitely curious to see what I was going to find.
We got to Malacca this afternoon and, shortly after a quick meal, went for a walk in the old town. It didn't take long for me to recognise how similar the architecture of so many buildings was to the architecture of Portuguese buildings. There was also something about the organisation of the space, its atmosphere, that made me feel at home; it was only the Asian products for sale and the names of the shops written in Asian languages that made me snap out of it. At the same time, I thought that everything was very beautiful - an opinion also shared by non-Portuguese citizens!
All of this to say that, even if the Portuguese disrupted trade in Malacca, even if they are responsible for many of the atrocities committed in the area, they have left something precious and worthy behind. And I really wonder if all the tourists I saw walking around in the streets would have come for a visit if it wasn't for that heritage...
I don't know about you but when I read the last sentence, I spotted an underlying criticism of Portuguese rule in the area, which, after reading the sentence below, couldn't be confused with a criticism of European colonisation in general: "It was the British that recognized the strategic position of the Malay states and their abundance of natural resources."
In view of the fact that, at some point, I was also told that the Portuguese influence was strong in the old town I was definitely curious to see what I was going to find.
We got to Malacca this afternoon and, shortly after a quick meal, went for a walk in the old town. It didn't take long for me to recognise how similar the architecture of so many buildings was to the architecture of Portuguese buildings. There was also something about the organisation of the space, its atmosphere, that made me feel at home; it was only the Asian products for sale and the names of the shops written in Asian languages that made me snap out of it. At the same time, I thought that everything was very beautiful - an opinion also shared by non-Portuguese citizens!
All of this to say that, even if the Portuguese disrupted trade in Malacca, even if they are responsible for many of the atrocities committed in the area, they have left something precious and worthy behind. And I really wonder if all the tourists I saw walking around in the streets would have come for a visit if it wasn't for that heritage...
Tuesday, 13 March 2012
High in the sky
When I got to Kuala Lumpur, I didn't think much of the city - there were only massive buildings and traffic jams everywhere. But then I got to the site of the Petronas Twin Towers and something changed.
We were in a spot where everyone goes to take pictures of themselves with the towers in the background. Becoming a member of the I-have-a-picture-with-the-Petronas-Towers-in-the-background group made me feel quite good. Shortly afterwards, I have noticed that everyone, myself included, was constantly looking up and realised that, in one way or the other, we were all admiring the greatness of the human spirit for we can definitely achieve wonderful things when we set our minds to it. And then was when it hit me - Kuala Lumpur pays tribute to all the qualities that make us belong to a realm up there in the air and far away from the mundane.
This thought was with me the whole day today - when I went on a double decker city tour and got to see all the major sights from above; when I went to the top of the Kuala Lumpur Tower and had amazing views over the city just before and after it got dark.
This entire time, the Petronas Towers were my focus point - I could see them from almost everywhere and what a sight for sore eyes they were. I was particularly pleased when I spotted them from the National Palace. Seeing them with the lights on from the KL Tower was also breathtaking but not as breathtaking as when I was surprised by their reflection in another building on the way to Chinatown.
As I headed back to the guesthouse, it occured to me that as nice as it can be to live in a place with such a high esteem for all that is up there in the air, it is possible to quickly start missing something - all the earthly things, which can be found down here. For they are dam worth it as well.
We were in a spot where everyone goes to take pictures of themselves with the towers in the background. Becoming a member of the I-have-a-picture-with-the-Petronas-Towers-in-the-background group made me feel quite good. Shortly afterwards, I have noticed that everyone, myself included, was constantly looking up and realised that, in one way or the other, we were all admiring the greatness of the human spirit for we can definitely achieve wonderful things when we set our minds to it. And then was when it hit me - Kuala Lumpur pays tribute to all the qualities that make us belong to a realm up there in the air and far away from the mundane.
This thought was with me the whole day today - when I went on a double decker city tour and got to see all the major sights from above; when I went to the top of the Kuala Lumpur Tower and had amazing views over the city just before and after it got dark.
This entire time, the Petronas Towers were my focus point - I could see them from almost everywhere and what a sight for sore eyes they were. I was particularly pleased when I spotted them from the National Palace. Seeing them with the lights on from the KL Tower was also breathtaking but not as breathtaking as when I was surprised by their reflection in another building on the way to Chinatown.
As I headed back to the guesthouse, it occured to me that as nice as it can be to live in a place with such a high esteem for all that is up there in the air, it is possible to quickly start missing something - all the earthly things, which can be found down here. For they are dam worth it as well.
Sunday, 11 March 2012
The beauty of the hills
After an overnight stay in Georgetown, the very colonial capital city of Penang, we drove to the Cameron Highlands. As soon as we got to our destination, I had a feeling of comfort and delight - probably because there are green trees everywhere and the air is surprisingly fresh.
Today, Nikki and I ventured into the rainforest. We started in Gunung Brinchang, the Cameron Highlands' highest point. Unfortunately, we didn't see much because the sky was not clear enough but every now and then we catched a glimpse of the landscape and imagined just how beautiful it could be behind all the fog.
We then went for a walk in the mossy forest and I must say that I was highly impressed by Nikki's grace during the whole experience. I truly believe that she is the rainforest's Grace Kelly. I, on the other hand, am closer to being the rainforest's Bridget Jones. Good thing that a Swedish guy behind me managed to - how should I say this - propel my bottom in a way that I could reach a tree trunk without falling. Anyway, I'm just glad I made it through the lushiness of the world's oldest forest in one piece.
Next on the agenda was a scenic view of a tea plantation - my favorite moment of the day. The sights were magnificient and at some point I actually thought that, if I would fall, I would be launched to the sky unharmed - that's just how fluffy the plantation looked like. We then moved on to a tea factory and, after a quick guided tour, decided to have a cup of tea. I went one step further and had a slice of strawberry cake as well. Delicious combination.
Just before coming back to the guesthouse, we managed to visit a butterfly farm, as well as a strawberry farm. This last one was not particularly special but it was my opportunity to taste a handful of local strawberries, which I found worthy enough.
Throughout the day I couldn't stop thinking just how nice it could be to grow products like coffee, tea, strawberries, honey and then sell them in a cozy little coffee shop. It occurred to me yet again that a simple life could be a source of joy and happiness - especially when you're surrounded by this kind of natural beauty. The question I am now trying to answer is - would that always be enough?
Today, Nikki and I ventured into the rainforest. We started in Gunung Brinchang, the Cameron Highlands' highest point. Unfortunately, we didn't see much because the sky was not clear enough but every now and then we catched a glimpse of the landscape and imagined just how beautiful it could be behind all the fog.
We then went for a walk in the mossy forest and I must say that I was highly impressed by Nikki's grace during the whole experience. I truly believe that she is the rainforest's Grace Kelly. I, on the other hand, am closer to being the rainforest's Bridget Jones. Good thing that a Swedish guy behind me managed to - how should I say this - propel my bottom in a way that I could reach a tree trunk without falling. Anyway, I'm just glad I made it through the lushiness of the world's oldest forest in one piece.
Next on the agenda was a scenic view of a tea plantation - my favorite moment of the day. The sights were magnificient and at some point I actually thought that, if I would fall, I would be launched to the sky unharmed - that's just how fluffy the plantation looked like. We then moved on to a tea factory and, after a quick guided tour, decided to have a cup of tea. I went one step further and had a slice of strawberry cake as well. Delicious combination.
Just before coming back to the guesthouse, we managed to visit a butterfly farm, as well as a strawberry farm. This last one was not particularly special but it was my opportunity to taste a handful of local strawberries, which I found worthy enough.
Throughout the day I couldn't stop thinking just how nice it could be to grow products like coffee, tea, strawberries, honey and then sell them in a cozy little coffee shop. It occurred to me yet again that a simple life could be a source of joy and happiness - especially when you're surrounded by this kind of natural beauty. The question I am now trying to answer is - would that always be enough?
Friday, 9 March 2012
Tea and scones
I said hello to Malaysia a couple of days ago. It was so sunny that it was impossible to predict yesterday's huge amounts of rain. Nikki and I had planned to go island hopping in the morning but had to wait until 2 p.m. to see if the sky would clear up. It didn't but at least it stopped raining so we managed to brave through the lingering grayness.
We got on the boat and, shortly afterwards, noticed that it was pretty choppy, which soon became a source of never ending laughter. On the first island we visited, we paddled in a lake and I must say that we did it gracefully - especially when it started raining again. While we took cover under a wooden shelter, we met Thor from Norway, who I believe is a very good connection to have in this type of weather. We soon got back on the boat and made our way to a beach, where it also started raining and where we also bumped into Thor.
At the end of the tour, we did one of the nicest things you can possibly do on a rainy day - we treated ourselves to tea and scones with strawberry jam and cream. I really loved pouring tea while listening to Nikki's story about a guy she met a couple of weeks ago. This was definitely one of the coziest moments I had in the last couple of months.
The day ended with us dancing in "Babylon". Thor was also there and I am sure that he managed to put in a good word for us because the weather today was just great. So much so that we managed to take Langkawi's cable car to its middle and top stations and enjoy breathtaking views over the islands and the rainforest - surely a godly world view.
We got on the boat and, shortly afterwards, noticed that it was pretty choppy, which soon became a source of never ending laughter. On the first island we visited, we paddled in a lake and I must say that we did it gracefully - especially when it started raining again. While we took cover under a wooden shelter, we met Thor from Norway, who I believe is a very good connection to have in this type of weather. We soon got back on the boat and made our way to a beach, where it also started raining and where we also bumped into Thor.
At the end of the tour, we did one of the nicest things you can possibly do on a rainy day - we treated ourselves to tea and scones with strawberry jam and cream. I really loved pouring tea while listening to Nikki's story about a guy she met a couple of weeks ago. This was definitely one of the coziest moments I had in the last couple of months.
The day ended with us dancing in "Babylon". Thor was also there and I am sure that he managed to put in a good word for us because the weather today was just great. So much so that we managed to take Langkawi's cable car to its middle and top stations and enjoy breathtaking views over the islands and the rainforest - surely a godly world view.
Tuesday, 6 March 2012
Phi Phi time!
When Ene, Kairit and I travelled to the Andaman Coast, we didn't make it to the Phi Phi archipelago. I was not at all disappointed but did think that I would like to go there one day. And one day has arrived.
Last Sunday, I woke up in Bangkok and went to the Chatuchak Weekend Market - something I really enjoyed doing. In the evening, I started another journey to the Andaman Coast but, this time, I took the train. And what a great idea this was for it provided me with the opportunity to lie down and get some sleep. It was particularly gratifying to wake up in the morning and see the pink colours of the sunrise, misty grass around palmtrees and impressive limestone rocks.
Today the time came to go snorkelling around Koh Phi Phi. I was pretty excited about it and, now that I think of it, I could have tried to annoy people by singing "We're going Phi Phi!".
The day trip started in Bamboo Island, where we swam in turquoise waters after having walked in a white sanded beach. We then moved on to the Phi-Phi archipelago and paid a visit to Maya Bay. As soon as I stepped out of the boat and my feet touched the wet sand, I felt as if I was walking on marshmallows. Cool!
After lunch, we went snorkelling and what a beautiful experience it was. I was lucky enough to see a shark but I didn't think like that at the time - somehow I was too busy getting out of the water! I know that there are harmless sharks out there but the fact that they are excellent swimmers plus the fact that they might just be having a bad day like the rest of us make me feel restless when I am swimming with them.
As we headed back to Ao Nang, I was definitely happy to have been in one of the world's most beautiful spots. And a lot more tanned.
Last Sunday, I woke up in Bangkok and went to the Chatuchak Weekend Market - something I really enjoyed doing. In the evening, I started another journey to the Andaman Coast but, this time, I took the train. And what a great idea this was for it provided me with the opportunity to lie down and get some sleep. It was particularly gratifying to wake up in the morning and see the pink colours of the sunrise, misty grass around palmtrees and impressive limestone rocks.
Today the time came to go snorkelling around Koh Phi Phi. I was pretty excited about it and, now that I think of it, I could have tried to annoy people by singing "We're going Phi Phi!".
The day trip started in Bamboo Island, where we swam in turquoise waters after having walked in a white sanded beach. We then moved on to the Phi-Phi archipelago and paid a visit to Maya Bay. As soon as I stepped out of the boat and my feet touched the wet sand, I felt as if I was walking on marshmallows. Cool!
After lunch, we went snorkelling and what a beautiful experience it was. I was lucky enough to see a shark but I didn't think like that at the time - somehow I was too busy getting out of the water! I know that there are harmless sharks out there but the fact that they are excellent swimmers plus the fact that they might just be having a bad day like the rest of us make me feel restless when I am swimming with them.
As we headed back to Ao Nang, I was definitely happy to have been in one of the world's most beautiful spots. And a lot more tanned.
Friday, 2 March 2012
The truth about ladyboys
When I waved goodbye to Jody, Mark, Michael, Ed, Dorothy and Darioush in Hanoi, I hoped we would meet again in Bangkok. A lot could have happened and we could have missed each other but we didn't. And I was overjoyed when we got together again. At some point, Mark, Michael, Ed and I started talking about Thai ladyboys and what I found out blew my mind.
The predominant religion in Thailand is Theravada Buddhism and, according to the Buddhist concept of rebirth, each life can take a large number of states of being including the human, any kind of animal and several types of supernatural being - it all depends on the karmas of previous lives. This means that it is possible for a person to be born in the "wrong" body. It also means that Thai society accepts that a man, who is actually a woman, dresses up and behaves like a woman for that is the expression of his true self.
I used to think that this point of view was the ultimate act of openness and tolerance; I used to think that this kind of acceptance was a fine way to express respect for each person's pursuit of happiness. The thing is that there are also men who behave like men and like men, a concept which Thai society does not understand. So what ends up happening is that many gay men dress up like women because it is accepted, not because it's the way to express their true selves. All this to say that tolerance towards ladyboys is actually camouflage for intolerance towards gay men.
Learning this was somewhat disappointing because, judging from the level of acceptance of ladyboys in Thai society, I was convinced that each person could show what they truly are in this country. But it did not prevent me from having a great night out with my friends. We drank and danced until we couldn't drink and dance anymore. All of a sudden, they took off again and I was once more left hoping to meet them soon.
The predominant religion in Thailand is Theravada Buddhism and, according to the Buddhist concept of rebirth, each life can take a large number of states of being including the human, any kind of animal and several types of supernatural being - it all depends on the karmas of previous lives. This means that it is possible for a person to be born in the "wrong" body. It also means that Thai society accepts that a man, who is actually a woman, dresses up and behaves like a woman for that is the expression of his true self.
I used to think that this point of view was the ultimate act of openness and tolerance; I used to think that this kind of acceptance was a fine way to express respect for each person's pursuit of happiness. The thing is that there are also men who behave like men and like men, a concept which Thai society does not understand. So what ends up happening is that many gay men dress up like women because it is accepted, not because it's the way to express their true selves. All this to say that tolerance towards ladyboys is actually camouflage for intolerance towards gay men.
Learning this was somewhat disappointing because, judging from the level of acceptance of ladyboys in Thai society, I was convinced that each person could show what they truly are in this country. But it did not prevent me from having a great night out with my friends. We drank and danced until we couldn't drink and dance anymore. All of a sudden, they took off again and I was once more left hoping to meet them soon.
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